Handloom, Case Studies, Ri Bhoi
Handloom, Case Studies, Ri Bhoi
| Main Info | ML/RB/HL/001, ML/RB/HL/002, ML/RB/HL/003, ML/RB/HL/004, ML/RB/HL/005 ML/RB/HL/006 |
| Name of the Technique | Traditional Knowledge on Handloom, Ri Bhoi. Meghalaya |
| Source Publisher | Primary Survey, Ri Bhoi District, Meghalaya |
| Source Year | 2023 |
| History Of The Technique | The skilled weavers interviewed are local residents of a cluster of tiny villages in Ri-Bhoi District of Meghalaya. Eri silk (locally called “ryndia”) is a traditional handspun, handwoven fabric worn with pride by both men and women in Meghalaya and the traditional technique of handloom weaving is still highly practiced in the various regions of Ri Bhoi District. Majority of the materials involved in the process are sourced from the district itself and only few weavers purchase their materials from neighboring State, Assam. This traditional knowledge of handloom is passed down through generations and for majority others, weaving are still an important activity for providing livelihood to families in the region |
| Manufacturing technique | Spinning: Clean, dry and uniform quality cocoons are chosen for spinning. The threads are handspun into fabrics that lasts for a long time. They are spun strongly to create the warp and weft threads. The spinner holds the cocoon cake in the left hand, drafts and then feeds the strand with the right hand to the spindle. The spindle is occasionally rotated by the right hand in order to wind the yarn to the spindle. The drawback with hand spinning is that it is a very slow process. |
| Method of Preparation | Degumming: Degumming cocoon used for extracting threads- Eri silkworm feeds on castor leaves for 30 days until they mature in size to be harvested. Locally called “Ryndia”, is a type of organic silk reared by the weavers and is one of the only silks extracted from cocoons without killing the silkworm. The cocoons are loosely tied in cotton cloth and boiled in soapy water for 45 minutes to 1 hour. This helps in holding the cocoons together to avoid the fibers from getting entangled during the stirring process. After boiling, individual cocoons are stretched or opened up in plain water into thin sheets which is dried and used for spinning. Once the silk is dry, it is ready to be spun into yarn. Spinning- Clean, dry and uniform quality cocoons are chosen for spinning. The threads are handspun into fabrics that lasts for a long time. They are spun strongly to create the warp and weft threads. The spinner holds the cocoon cake in the left hand, drafts and then feeds the strand with the right hand to the spindle. The spindle is occasionally rotated by the right hand in order to wind the yarn to the spindle. The drawback with hand spinning is that it is a very slow process. |
| Material Composition | Tools/Material: Handspun thread and Mill spun thread, handmade brush, one spinning wheel and wooden pirn. Handmade brush that is used in the sizing process, Spinning wheel, Hand spun thread, Mill threads, Wooden pirn, Parts of the Spinning wheel. |
| How to implement | Organic Dyeing: Ryndia is exclusively handwoven by the weavers and is organically dyed using only natural and locally available raw materials majorly generated from plant parts – leaves, fruits, flowers, and barks. Mineral such as iron ore is also used to obtain black colour. The colour and shade depends on a number of factors such as quality of the worms, their feed, temperature and climate. Lemon juice is used along while dyeing the yarn in order to retain the colour. Traditionally, the three main colors commonly used in Meghalaya are: • Lac (Laha) red • Turmeric yellow • Black from iron ore. • Onion peels • Leaf and flowers of plants Weaving: Once dyed, the yarn is handwoven into fabrics by using various traditional techniques like the frame loom which is completely hand-made from bamboos and wood, that offers the artisans possibilities of increased production as compared to floor loom which is a traditional technique used in the olden days. Eri fiber creates a beautiful natural off-white color. Most of the traditional Khasi Eri shawls are woven in this classic natural color. |
| New R & D leads | Alternative Livelihood Generation. |
| Theme | Traditional Handloom |
| Sub Theme | Raw Materials |
| Source Publisher | Primary Survey, Ri Bhoi District, Meghalaya |
| Source Year | 2023 |